Double Live-edge Slab Table

My design vision is brilliant and multifaceted: Have a table that functions as both a table and as a counter-level food prep station. (A floor wax and a dessert topping!) 

I purchased the crank table base during Covid. (It got stuck in the Evergiven-Suez canal debacle and took a LONG time to arrive.) It sat in my home garage that winter, then migrated to the KnArrow Haus kitchen last Fall.  At over 200 pounts, it's not the type of thing you want to move ore than once. Being able to raise and lower the table will eliminate the need for two different-height surfaces thereby conserving space. Bonus points if I can get the base up on casters that roll easily on the floor -- but based on the minimum height of the base, it's not likely that will happen as the table top would likely be too tall.

Somewhat accurate facsimile of the crank table base I ordered

The only reason I installed the industrial retractable power cord in the ceiling is because I knew the table would be going up and down and also potentially moving.

Ceiling mounted retractable extension cord waiting patiently for the crank table

 

I bought the maple slab at SecondUse.com a couple years ago for only a couple-hundred bucks. It was kiln dried, but has some rot in the crotch at one end and some softness at the other end that might be rot, but I'm not educated enough to accurately diagnose.

Maple slab from SecondUse.com

I proceeded to remove all the bark from edges, and to clean things up in general. A long day of work got things pretty cleaned-up. I also routed channels on the underside for metal, c-channel bars to help prevent warping. After my initial work, it sat for a over a year in our house waiting patiently.

In process cleaning up the slab

Classial crotch rot

Slight soft (punky?) end

Slab with steel stabilizing bars installed on the underside

I finally brought the slab and the base up to KnArrow Haus last fall, where both have hybernating patiently, taking up space. I began the next phase to stabilize, epoxy-fill, and finish the slab by treating the entire slab with wood hardener, specifically designed to stabilize rot.

maple slab treated on both sides with wood hardener.

The slab really drank up the wood hardener -- 3 of these from HomeDepot! I felt like I should go ahead and treat the whole thing keep it uniform in appearance. 

Next step will be to fill the holes and rotted areas with epoxy.

Backup Power

What was billed as "very reliable" power delivery when we first purchased our KnaArrow Haus property has gradually deteriorated into more-frequent-than-we-expected power outages, during both inclement Winter weather as well as during fairer weather. Although all the community power service is all underground and unaffected by rain, wind, or snow, the major feeder lines servicing our community and Stevens Pass are above ground and less impervious to the elements. 

KnArrow Haus survived (thankfully), with flying colors, the 10+ day power outage a couple seasons ago, when Leavenworth received record snowfall and US Hwy 2 was closed both directions over the pass due to snow, ice, wind, fallen trees, and then heavy rain. 

Regardless of the time of year, when we're enjoying KnArrow Haus with friends or family and the power goes out for more than a few hours, I want to smooth out the bump by running lights, Internet, and some selective heat and large appliances.

I bought a dual-fuel generator and two 40-pound propane tanks on wheels to smooth over the inevitable power gaps. At a slight sacrifice to peak power, the propane tanks remove the concer n for old or fouled fuel in between usage.

My friend helped me acquire the necessary provisions and gave me the plan for connecting the generator socket in to the panels. I waited until the weather was warm before shutting off power to the cabin's panels to hook things up. 

Crude schematic for hooking up the generator to both panels

The power panels before hooking up the generator connection

Implementing the schematic required that I move the current circuit breakers from the top right of each panel in order to install 50 Amp circuit breakers for the generator along with the needed shutoff-interlock mechanism. The interlock prevents the generator breakers from being on when the power from the grid is also on.

For all but one circuit breaker, there was enough slack wire in the box to move the breakers without a hassle. However, I had to splice one additional wire on to the septic pump breaker to move it down to the bottom.

One panel showing the 50 Amp generator circuit breaker installed on the top right.

Routing the heavy gauge wires through the top of each panel, stripping, and splicing them took much longer than I planned.  The entire project took 6 hours, mostly because I was purposefully slow, careful and methodical. Translating and implementing a schematic in the real world is always more work, especially for a DIY-er like me. 

The panels with generator circuit breakers and interlocks installed

I also took the opportunity to re-label the chicken scratch on all of the circuits using a label printer. They are much easier to read now. Very pleased with the end results (below). 

New generator with propane tanks and panel plugg-in. 

The next step will be to figure out which combinations of circuits, appliances, and heat can be used successfully when on generator power.

Closet shelves with just a little personality

Picking up my toolbelt once again to finish one more item on the list, I got to work on the storage shelves in the master bedroom. We originally designed the closet to include this slightly-hidden set of exterior shelves. 

With butcher block wood leftover from last year's stair build, it seemed the logical choice to continue the theme. I used L-shaped aluminim, cut to length and mounted on each side of the wall to use as brackets to hold the shelf blocks. When the wood banks are set in them, they all but disappear.  

Instead of cutting plain rectangular slabs for each shelf, I cut the leading edge at an angle so that they are about 3 inches wider/deeper on the right side, matching the slight angle of the overal cabin exterior. The shelves are sealed with a clear, water-based sealer. 

 

Before & After
Master Bedroom Storage Shelves

Closet-topping Bunk

When we designed the master bedroom closet, we included a platform for a bed on top. With the vaulted ceiling, there's plenty of head room. The platform sits at about the same height as the top triple log bunk bed in the bunk room. 

To add rigidity to the cantelever required to extend past the end of the closet I planned for 2" angle iron. 

Master closet bunk design

I ended up adding 2 more angle-iron cross members in the middle, in addition to standard 2x4's for a more rigid and safe platform with cantilevers over the front and side. It fits a twin X bunk with a little extra room at the end of the ladder, Not shown in the design is a piece of 3/4" plywood that I placed on top of the cross braces. 

Assembly with the help of my former siding forman.

The bottom edge of the platform is a 8 feet off the ground. I found a ready-to-assemble pine ladder that I stained black and sealed.  

The completed bunk and ladder

I added some beetle-stained pine to fill in the railing to keep little bodies for plummeting to their sure-and-certain death on the concrete floor 8 feet below. .